KC STRINGS 'PEG LEG' BASS END PINS

Contents: BASS ENDPINS - Peg Leg Wood Endpins - - Peg Leg Angled Wood Endpins - - Angled Peg Leg Instructions - - Steel End Pins - BASS MACHINES - Bass Machines Installation - BRIDGE ADJUSTER SET

Long John Silver made them famous,
K. C. Strings has made them available!

Wood to Wood

Wood End Pin

$

40

Wood End Button -  Custom Lathe: Specify diameter of your End Pin Socket

$

40

Standard wood pin is all wood construction with non-slipping rubber tip included. You can cut pin to your desired length. Pin attaches to bass via wood bass end button which fits directly into bass. Bass end button has solid wood construction and standard 34mm diameter. Wood pin and bass end button combine for complete wood-to-wood connection, so vibrations go only through wood from tip of pin to bass itself for the best possible acoustic resonance. The wood pin and button can be stained black or other desired color.

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Wood with Carbon Fiber Rod and Threaded Metal Tip

Wood End Pin with Carbon Fiber Rod and Metal Tip		$	90
K.C. Strings Rubber Stopper (optional)		$	24

Wood pin with carbon fiber rod also includes a threaded metal tip if a sharp point at bottom of the pin is desired. Threaded rubber stopper can be screwed on. The 10mm or 12mm (diameter) carbon fiber rod which fits most standard end pin housings. Needs to be ordered in desired final length. The wood pin can be stained black or other desired color.

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'Peg Leg' Wooden Bass End Pins

Short Peg Leg		Long Peg Leg

Easy to install. No need to drill a hole in the bottom of the bass block. Accommodates KC Strings wood pin or Rabbath style endpin. KC Strings wood pins come in different sizes and can be cut. down and customized to your desired length. KC Strings wood pins have better resonance than standard metal bass pins. Includes removable non-slipping rubber tip. Comes in white (no finish) and can be stained or varnished to desired color.

End Pin	Tilt Block	Anchor Knob

	End Pin (wood)		$	40
	Tilt Block		$	60
	Anchor Knob		$	40
	Angled Peg Leg Installation Charge		$	100

(Note: Angled Peg Leg Installation instructions at bottom of page)

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KC Strings Bass End-Pins

Cello Endpin $ 90 Bass Endpin $ 120 Endpin Installation Charge $ 30 INDIVIDUAL PARTS PRICES Endpin Assembly $ 70 Endpin Stopper $ 24 Endpin Pin $ 58

Both endpins come with carbide tips that will never need sharpening. Different shaft diameters available to accommodate most existing instrument endpin holes. Endpins are made with a special fastener that securely and firmly grip the pin. The bass endpin comes with a uniquely designed metal lined rubber stopper that screws on and self-locks.

K.C. Strings Bass Rubber Stopper

Endpin Stopper $ 24

 

KC Strings Bass Machines

$360 per set (4) machines $ 360

$750+ machines w/installation and bushings $ 750

Comfortable gear ratio of 1:36. Unlike most traditional bass machines, these require no disassembly to install. Unique washers secure precision of gears, provide smooth operation, and eliminate vibrations. Special drill bits are available to simplify installation. All brass construction with excellent weight to strength ratio design. Available in smooth head design also.

Instructions for Bass Machine Installation Read through all instructions before beginning work.
1a)	Make templates out of plastic or cardboard of the outline of the machines.
b)	Lay out templates on the scroll cheeks and mark center holes (two on each side).
c)	Drill marked holes with a 5-7mm bit.
2a)	Make a wood Center Punch by taking a 90mm long dowel and shaving one end to a point.
b)	Make a Drill Guide. (This is made out of two pieces of wood glued together.) NOTE Both the Center Punch and Drill Guide have different diameters depending if standard drill bits or K.C. Strings Special Bit is used.
c)	Diameter of the Center Punch or Drill Guide for use with standard bits is 11mm. The diameter for the K.C. Strings Special Bit is 15.2mm.
3a)	Place Drill Guide on top of the scroll cheek with the Center Punch in it to center the Guide on to the already-drilled hole.
b)	Clamp the (now centered) Drill Guide on to the scroll cheek.
c)	If using the K.C. Strings Special Bit, then drill through the first cheek and keep drilling 5-6mm into the side of the second cheek. The holes are now complete.
d)	If using standard drill bits, drill through the first cheek with an 11mm diameter bit, and keep drilling 5-6 mm into the side of the second cheek. Then take a 15.2mm bit and drill the outside hole bigger. The holes are now complete.
4a)	Bevel the outside of the 15.2mm diameter hole.
5)	Repeat this operation for all four holes.
6)	Cut the length of the brass machine shank just a little shorter than the depth of the small hole. (So that the end of the shank is not rubbing against the pegbox hole.)
7a)	Install machine shank into the hole with machine faceplate resting on the scroll cheek.
b)	Align hole in gear with the smaller hole in the machine plate.
c)	Drill 2mm diameter hole 11mm deep (through the holes in gear and plate) into scroll cheek.
d)	Repeat steps b and c for all other machine holes.
e)	Screw in all screws to attach plates.
8)	Spray machines with a little WD-40 and turn handle until machines work smoothly.

K.C. Strings Bass Bridge Adjusters

$	22		a set
$	70		adjusters with installation

Designed with comfortable 35mm diameter thumb wheels. Adjusters come in Composite or Brass. The Composite adjusters have the same visual and acoustic characteristics as wood but are more durable.

Instructions for Peg Leg Installation

Fitting the 'Peg Leg' is a straight forward operation requiring only the ability to measure and cut accurately and to use a Drill Press safely.

These instructions are designed to help achieve the following: That the hole to be drilled in the Tilt Block has a center line that corresponds as closely as possible to the center line of the existing endpin hole. Extend and then carefully 'sight' the existing endpin. If it is in fair alignment with the instrument both in the horizontal and the vertical axis follow the instructions below. If not, the note at the bottom of the page should be consulted along with steps (1) to (4).

1. Mark and cut the Tilt Block such that it fits as closely as possible between the Top and Bottom Plates of the instrument, but without introducing tension.

Modify the beveled face of the upper Block to match the 'overhang' of the top plate of the instrument being worked on.

2. With this done, position either edge of the Tilt Block so that you can mark the highest and lowest point of the existing Endpin Hole on the edge of the Block.

(Take care to hold the Block tight against the upper or top plate while finding these points.) Use a rule to find the center point between these marks. This point corresponds to the distance from the Top of the Block that the center of the Hole to be drilled needs to be placed. A square and a rule will be helpful in transferring this mark to the front face of the Block. This mark should be placed on the center line of the Block, a distance of 1-3/8" from either edge.

3. The Anchor Knob supplied is designed to be placed in a hole 1-1/2" in diameter, which needs to be drilled in the correct position of the Tilt Block, as found in step (2). For the sake of safety and accuracy the Block needs to be securely mounted in a jig or clamped directly to the drill press. DO NOT HOLD THE BLOCK WHILE DRILLING IT.

The end of the Anchor Knob that protrudes from the back of the block needs to be whittled such that it fits snugly in the existing Endpin Hole.

Should the existing Endpin hole be very much smaller than the 1-1/2" diameter Anchor Knob supplied and the reader has access to a lathe, it would be preferable to turn down the Anchor Knob to match a stock size drill, i.e. 1-1/4" or 1", and then whittle the 'end' of this smaller Anchor Knob to fit the existing Endpin Hole. Stain and/or varnish may be applied at this point.

4. To bolt the Block to the instrument a length of wire, such as a straightened coat hanger, will be of assistance. Thin the backing flange as necessary so that it can be inserted into the body of the instrument through the f-hole.

A small hole into which the tip of the wire will fit tightly will allow the wire to be used to position the flange at the rear of the Endpin Hole, thus allowing the bolt mounted in the Anchor Knob to be threaded into the backing flange and tightened.

Tighten such that the Block is pulled tight to the instrument, but not excessively so.

Note: If the existing Endpin hole is drilled at an angle with respect to the center line of the instrument this should be taken into account when whittling the inner end of Anchor Knob. Bear in mind that the front portion of the Anchor Knob will be in fair alignment with the instrument when bolted in place through the Tilt Block; the whittled portion of the Knob should deviate in the direction of the existing Endpin Hole, and be a snug fit.